Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Frank Bruni amid the "carniwhores"


In a laudatory review of Chicago's months-old Publican restaurant, outgoing restaurant cricket Frank Bruni tries out what at first appears to be a neologism, one that looked like a typo at first glance: "The menu is frustrating, in that just about everything on it reads as if it shouldn’t be missed. I didn’t get to the beef heart or the sweetbreads, just two of the ways the Publican acknowledges the necessity of offal in any restaurant that cares about its carniwhore credentials." As it turns out, Bruni took "carniwhore" for a spin on March 18: "The carniwhore school holds that no beast bests the pig in its multifaceted pleasures, that offal shouldn’t be relegated to just one or two dishes on the margins of the main feast, and that if you think something might taste better fried, go ahead and fry it, arteries be damned." Google searches lead to Bruni, an odd band, and a definition by Urban Dictionary in February 2008: "Derogatory term for a vegan or vegetarian who has sex with meat-eaters. The antithesis of a vegansexual."

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